The Motivation for this Journal

My name is Matt and I play in West Virginia. Actually, I'm addicted to the state.

Living inside or within a few hours of a WV state border for all of my life, I've had plenty of "West Virginia Moments," a characterization that could range from WV stereotype reinforcements of the cultural (could be bad) to the natural persuasion. Fortunately, the number of the latter is far greater than the number of former.

I wish to document with this blog these "West Virginia Moments." If you're reading this, then you are a friend or family member, or have stumbled upon this blog, and I thank you for reading and hope you'll get a laugh, discover a new natural place in WV, or gasp at the thought of it. However, the real reason for this blog is personal. I will consider this blog an archive of these moments for a man with a poor memory.

Enjoy!

14 April, 2008

The Thrill of Gravity

I didn't mean for it to happen, but somehow gravity played a significant role in the activities of the first warm weekend of 2008. And, I (somehow) got it off to a good start with a dinner that inspired Molly to articulate some ways in which West Virginia is "just like" Paris. Those particulars include riverside dining (in this case, the Monongahela River is like the Siene) and the well-placed, colorful flowers in common areas, but my interjections sealed the metaphor: the people are generally dirty and they eat rabbits; they smoke a lot and despite a lousy reputation among outsiders, pride in their homeland rules with intense fervor; not to mention, they talk funny and experiment with strange arrangements of facial hair.

After our special dinner in a centuries old grain warehouse overlooking the Monongahela, Molly and I headed for Nelson Rocks for an experience unlike any other. We met our friend, Kent, and his son, Zachary, for a vertical traverse of the via Ferrata -- a network of steel rungs, cables, and 100 foot long wood and cable bridge spanning 200 feet over a canyon -- to spots hundreds of feet above the forest.

The via starts difficult and crescendos to asinine by the time climbers get to the swinging bridge. We were graced with warm temperatures in the high 60's, but gale force winds made our experience gripping. Looking down at the small small planks of wood suspending your body on the cable bridge, all one has to do to look down at the forest below is to focus between the planks. "Don't look down" takes on a very different tone when it must be rephrased to "don't focus on the ground." Yeah right!

With each reach, stability is questioned as you climb the via Ferrata. What might normally be a perfectly stable position on a 12-inch wide step becomes precarious when the drop beneath the step would be a deadly fall. Yet, as more and more of the via was behind me, the cumulative experience left me more comfortable and trusting in the harness system anchoring me to the rock. However, when our guide pointed to the optional "bonus" loop that scaled a vertical and overhanging spire of rock that is 6 feet wide at the top with 500 foot drops on either side, comfort was diminished. Kent took the bait and started up. Molly was next, but only because I was right on her heels.

As the wall became an overhanging precipice, Molly spidered her way up. I did not. In fact, I am not even ashamed to say that it was never my intention to collect my "bonus." Rather, Molly continued under the presumption that I was right behind, got to the summit of the knife-edge of rock, belly crawled 10 feet across to the down-climb while the wind attempted to pluck her and Kent to the mercy of their harnesses, and slowly spidered her way back down to relatively safety. I got a couple jabs to the shoulder and she admitted that she was glad to have done it. It was a classic move, but I've been up on that "bonus" summit before and vividly remember saying I'd never do it again. That I could never do any real rock climbing is reinforced again and again.

The trip came to a solemn, pivotal crux when our guide, Brian, explained the dangers of releasing the safety harness from the via's security with his first-hand experience. It was less than two years ago when his then girlfriend fell to her death from the via. The story from the September 25, 2006 Pittsburgh Post-Gazette details Nelson Rocks' only fatality. Listening to Brian explain how the fall happened was ample reinforcement to never release both lanyards from the via Ferrata.

With visions of death, we ended our upward adventure by returning to solid ground where gravity isn't so lethal. We joined some of our paddling friends for dinner and then our group returned to the cabin at Dolly Sods to get our boating gear ready for Sunday's downward adventure.

Sunday morning, we woke to snow flurries. However, this group is braver than most. The thought of a day on whitewater in these conditions only inserted a small taste of hesitation among the group, but after a few layers of neoprene (er . . a few dozen layers), we were ready to go. We joined the Three Rivers Paddling Club Jim Blackham Memorial Trip by meeting them at the put in for one of West Virginia's most scenic runs, the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac's beautiful Hopeville Canyon. It was my first time in a Shredder -- a 2-man rubber catamaran raft -- and Molly's first time in the canyon. The gear worked and we both emerged at the bottom of the canyon dry, warm, and smiling.

Here are some more photos from Nelson Rocks, and here are some more from Hopeville Canyon.

Git r Dun

09 April, 2008

Webster '08

It's not just a bad sitcom featuring a really short guy being raised by an ex-NFL lineman.

Mother Nature played a mean trick on us before the 2008 Webster Springs Wildwater Festival by indicating to the professional forecasters that she'd be dumping more than 2 inches of rain from the WV skies in the 48 hours prior to the festival. Plans went from running rivers to creeks to drainage ditches. Message boards buzzed with proposals to make first descents of every ravine in the state.

But, it didn't ruin the weekend when less than a half inch landed in Webster County, WV.

I spent Thursday evening with Grease Fire, Doug and the Steves looking at online river gauges and guidebooks. Bandwidth spent, gear packed and courage steeped, we abandoned the Cheat River watershed and drove south on Friday to where her promise diverted. We were graced with minimal rain, though it was just enough to fill the banks of the Cranberry River in the Cranberry Wilderness of Webster and Pocahontas Counties. The pigeonhole effect brought several other groups to the only river with water that Friday, though the timing kept our group intact and isolated.

The dynamic was perfect and I reiterate my personal thrill in paddling a river as though it is the solution to a problem. Two boaters in our group had paddled the Cranberry once and both pleaded no recollection of the rapids. That put an intensity to the trip that provoked each boater's "A-game" to make an appearance. A-games abound, we shoved into the current. Scouting the unknown bends and half-blind drops in the Cranberry was done from our boats and not a single member of our group ran into trouble.

Friday night of the festival was mild as more and more vehicles rolled into Camp Caesar. Piled high on the vehicles, boats of every color brightened the dark, damp evening. Drinks were plentiful as the buzz escalated: What will run tomorrow? What are you paddling tomorrow?

Perhaps it was the success of our descent of the Cranberry or perhaps it was embedded in our desire to drive an extra few hours on soggy backroads, but John, Grease Fire, and I decided to head back north for Saturday's run to paddle the Tygart River from Arden, WV. That put us in bad position to come back to the festival, but as it turns out the rain never came on Saturday night and so our gamble paid off.

The minimum level for the Tygart River is 400 cubic feet per second. We found it at 1800, a high level, but (we'd decide after the fact) still safe. We drove along it first and declared the rapids to be Gauley-esque though a couple big hydraulics looked intimidating. None of us had run this river before and after paddling the Cranberry River the day before, the Tygart was a serious step up. Moat's Falls, a 15 or 20 foot waterfall, loomed downstream. Just above it were at least two ugly hydraulics.

It would be another success. This time we got out of our boats to take close looks at three sections, one of which was Moat's Falls, and decided to "sneak" a river-wide hydraulic next to an underwater rock cave by scraping down a nearly dry ledge of bedrock. Nonetheless, we all paddled over the lip of Moat's Falls and slammed into countless big waves and ugly hydraulics on our way down the Tygart.

Planning as we did, I even was able to make it to Pittsburgh with plenty of time to take Molly out for sushi, which was an interesting way of ending a day that began with greasy bacon, soupy eggs, and sausage gravy over biscuits being served by a local Webster County boy scout.

Check out more photos here.

Git 'r dun.